The 7am alarm goes so I can catch the 8.15 am train from Milano Centrale to Montova, about 2 hours away, towards Verona.
Where I really wanted to go to was Renate, a small hamlet next to a tiny lake, near to a small town called Sul del Olio but the not so-helpful train staff at platform 21 insist this will be the closest station.
The sun was finally shining and it was a warm 5 degrees as Jo and I strode to the station. The sun helps to put a different light on the backside of any city which is what I think any entrance or exit of a city on a train looks like. Always scruffy and covered in graffiti with crowded tenements like festering spots.
As we picked up pace across the plains and headed north east the sun disappeared into a mist. Every now and again it cleared enough to glimpse men walking with dogs across fields with guns dangling at their arms.
Jo was quickly feeling travel sick as the train rocked at speed. I seem to have lost that tendency on the way thank-goodness.
We arrived in Mantova at 10.30 and then had the challenge of trying to find our way back to Runate using local transport. We were booked into lunch for 12.00 but it was still impossible to connect local trains or buses and get there on time so we were forced to take the 60 Euro taxi.
Villa Santini was our destination, and Dal Pescatore the restaurant housed within. Not any restaurant...one of the top 50 in the world with 3 Michelin Stars. Worth eating off platforms for weeks beforehand,we hoped.
Villa Santini is a traditional farm set up with a cluster of buildings around courtyards and gardens. The grandfather was the original ‘dal Pescatore’ as he had caught and fried the local small fish from the lake. There are dozens of restaurants in Italy called Dal Pescatore of course, ‘the fisherman’.
We were ushered into the one of the reception rooms as we were somewhat early. Jo went for a wander to try to settle her stomach but was soon back inside as it was so cold outside. I read various guides to the top eateries in Italy and took in the colours and textures of the room.
A waiter appeared and offered us a Spumante as an appetizer with melted/fried Parmesan that looked like potato chips. Why not? The waiters were all friendly and helpful and able to explain everything in English. In fact our first waiter was Japanese.
Closer to our allotted time we were ushered through into the dining room. It was quite lavishly decorated with large mirrors, copies of famous paintings, and plenty of large flower arrangements. The tables were set exquisitely of course, and what took my eye as useful were the foot stools next to each seat to place your handbag on. What set the room off was the view through the portico's or sloped ceilings of the deep veranda, and the large farm dogs playing in the yard.
Gandma was seen at one stage in her pinny wandering through the garden, probably off to pick some fresh herbs or flowers for the dishes. She grows the crocus from which they collect their own saffron.
Mr and Mrs Santini preside over the kitchen and the dining room. He was the host coming to each table in turn at intervals, and she in the kitchen. The son and daughter are also in the kitchen. I think it was their daughter who had greeted us and was later on waitressing.
I had read that the ideal way to make the most of dining experience was to opt for one of their tastings menus, although it is possible to do a la carte. I opted for the special autumn menu while Jo went for the local specialities menu which had quite a few fish dishes in it. The tasting menu dishes are tiny and pictures of beauty. Each tasting menu has around a dozen dishes in it!
I won’t bore you with the exact order or too much detail but highlights included:
-tiny deep fried and crumbed frog legs (speciality of the area)
-trio of ravioli with fresh white truffle grated on top
-beef that disappeared in my mouth before I had a chance to chew
-a trio of desserts that were then accompanied by a tray of finger sized sweets such as handmade truffles, pralines, lemon tarts the size of a finger nails, Turkish delight, walnut sized chocolate mousse....
Of course accompanying all of this gastronomy was wine. I chose a bottle of Sangiovese. It was just right, aromatic with some tannins that didn’t grab too much initially and by the end were feeling like soft caressing velvet slip- sliding down.
Well heeled ‘locals’ appeared to be the main clients, couples on a special outing or small groupings. Jeans, hounds tooth jackets for the men, women in tight designer jeans and a flash blouse, plenty of jewellery or the more horsey type also in a hounds tooth jacket, no makeup.
The complicating factor in us leaving was that Jo had decided to try to make Rome by night as the trains were going to be on strike from 9pm until 9pm the next day, so she had all her gear, whereas I had decided to stay put in Milan for the weekend and get the early Monday morning express to Rome. She rushed off in a local taxi trying to make the connections (she missed by less than 5 minutes) while I got a ride later on to the main trunk line between Verona and Milan, from the neighbouring couple from Austria. He is a professor of chemistry and she a doctor who played golf, so we had plenty to talk about.
Waving goodbye (they had gone a long way out of their way), I had a nice warm feeling all through, not just from the wine and food. What a great day! Snoozing on the train back to Milan was easy, and we pulled back into the station at 7pm. I strolled home, with a few burps of truffle to help me on the way, and collapsed into bed for a sound night’s sleep.
It will be hard to beat this 12 hour lunch experience.
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