Chianti wander/wonder

Wow wee, I think we just got lost in paradise!
We picked up the car, a small Lancia, and began to drive vaguely towards San Gimignano. We got stuck in a few boring towns, but made it to San G around 4pm, thinking we would settle in for the night. (We had lunched in the town where Pinocchio was set.) Well what a disappointment! It was still thronging with tourists, and it seemed to have no other function ie not a real working town. I didn’t like the vibe a tall, so we decided to push on south to Chianti country. Nothing was looking that interesting to stay in, but the forests and the views were incredible in the rapidly disappearing light. We wound our way up a huge hill to Castellina in Chianti and tried to find one of the agri-tourismo places sign-posted. We threw a left, and found what looked like a hotel called something like Albergo...something but when Barry looked it was a restaurant called Resturante Albergaccio di Castellina..........he came back and said wow you will like the menu, maybe a little pricey but ...wild pigeon, wild boar, rabbit, duck, venison.
Across the road was a place called Villa Christina, so we knocked and asked about a room. She did have a double, so we took it on the spot without looking. As you know this can be a disaster, but it was already dark and we had to take our chances. Well the room was great. Spacious and with a nice view down the mountain. Breakfast was a feast which was include for the price of 78 Euro.
Next came dinner at the restaurant across the road. The owner of the villa said yes it was good, so we took her word for it and trudged across the road expecting a nice earthy meal.
Well the Michelin Star certificate was the first thing to hit us as we walked in!! We were early (first sitting is strictly at 7.30 we have discovered). It was one of my goals for this trip to go to a Michelin Starred place, but not to stumble upon one!! I had done research on one nearer to Turin.
They deemed to let us in early, and offered us a bubbly aperitif. There were 6 different types of bread to sample while waiting. We tossed the choices up and ate things like wild pigeon with quail egg and porcini mushrooms (in season), wild boar, speld biscuits, etc etc . Oh my God. Barry loved his crepes of spinach and ricotta that had been grilled lightly. We drank a bottle of Chianti Classico.....when in Chianti. Well 150 euros later we rolled across the road to bed.
The next day we followed a route through Chianti. What a route! Windy hill climbs and descents all through forest glades. It was much more mountainous than we expected, and more forested. The autumn colours are just beginning on some aspects and more on other aspects, so it is very, very beautiful. Towards the end of the day we got onto a more main road and headed for Montepulciano as we were due here at 2pm to get the keys from the owner. Our apartment is a two bedroomed one, with a garden, and plenty of space. I was soo excited to see a washing machine I did it all!! (not really excited)
We have a room with a view, over the Tuscan landscape. Wow!! I just wanted to lay on the bed and look.
Next blog will be about Tuscany.

Health Camp Cinque Terre

What a pleasure to arrive in Vernazza, plop down at a table in the square on the water front and order a seafood risotto for two. We sat in the sun and contemplated the world, while supping vino rosso and sparkling water. From here about 2 hours later we found ourselves a room just 20 metres away, on the flat and next to the water. Unfortunately it was only for one night, but it was worth it to gather our wits. We then stupidly took off for the first walk to Monterosso, with the wine and food in out tummies.
The walk was bloody hard, and hundreds and hundreds of f... upward steps to even get out of the town, but maybe worse are the steps down into the next town. It looks so close but it is miles up and down to go around the bluffs. At times I thought I couldn’t do it, but kept counting 10 steps and then another 10 and so on. Lucky I am a stubborn bitch. It was really rough too, so no nice smooth track or anything. The sun was really hot and we quickly ran out of water. The problem is, you get to the other end and it is only a 5 minutes train ride back!! Very deflating.
The next day we were up and racing (not) around 9am (Italian pace) and had an Italian breakfast of brioche and cappucini and then had to sit around waiting to change rooms. The room we chose is up bloody 100 steps but we can sit cliff edge and view the coast from a terrace. We decided to read from there and just cruise for a few hours. You have to ration how many times you come up and down.
We eventually caught the train to the other end and took the same photo we took 23 years ago in Riomaggiore. The walks from this end are a doddle in comparison, nice and flat and paved for most of the way.
Today we have done the final part of the walk, beating straight up out of this town and heading to Corniglia. It was quite tough and long and it is sticky with humidity so we sweated out litres. I can’t get my washing dry in my room, so it is waving in public cliff-side much to Barry’s disgust. What is wrong with 7 pairs of size 20 undies and 7 pairs of white socks blowing in the wind?
The trains were a little muddled (ie Barry was muddled by the trains) so we ended up back at Riomaggioire for lunch next to the beach. Each place is slightly different so it is nice.
Barry is being a masochist and going back up way above the town to get last light photos. Good on him.
Next stop is Lucca..one of our favourite places.

Verona, Genoa, Milan

Well I haven’t got much to say about these places as they are cities and the worst aspects of humanity are always displayed.
The smell of piss, dog shit, heaps of graffiti, mad druggies in the train stations, transport strikes, traffic, churches full of gold and icons with beggars outside......
Ok it is true I worked in Milan on the day of a strike so it was a long day but I did manage to train from Verona to Milan and return and make my appointment. Barry stayed behind in the beautiful B and B and wrote a report he just had to do (Auckland Commission).
Verona is quite nice in parts, and we went to the best restaurant so far although Barry didn’t actually like his choice. We couldn’t find the bench, on the bend of the river, that I slept comatosed on 23 years ago!
Genoa is a bad ass bitch with a high class background and exterior, who can trick you with her high heels and makeup, especially around the dock area. The grottiest medieval buildings are jammed up against one another and black girls peer around corners with tits and teeth showing, and black guys are on street corners. We drank beer and wine in the grungiest part of town, outside of a bar surrounded by graffiti and filth and old high-rise.
I was glad to leave behind the cities and head off to the Cinque Terra. I already knew I was over cities, hence gave up my job, so it should not have been a surprise.

Venezia La Luna

We arrived fit and ready to walk/ferry the city after our epic journey here from Dubrovnik. (Bus for 4 and a half hours, Split for a couple of hours to see the ancient Greek Palace, overnight ferry to Ancona, and train to Venice arriving around 3pm)
It has been hot here (26) and we have had to retreat to our hotel room (in the heart of the city) to cool off and rest mid afternoon.
Long lunches, breakfasts and dinners canal-side have about filled up our days!! We thought we had better do something cultural, so yesterday went through the museum of the Doge in Saint Marco Square.
This time around (compared to 23 years ago) we could afford (just)to have a cocktail in the square, and pay the additional charge for the band playing, all as the sun set over the bell tower.
We then walked around the corner to see the full moon coming up over the Grand Canal...just another day on the road.
It is not too crowded; mainly Italian, French and German tourists, and quite a few families. Seated next to a nice French couple the other night and by the end we were swapping addresses and saying we would visit them in the Champagne district. The people watching has been our main pass time, so we make sure we are seated with a view each time.
We found a nice hotel room near to the railway station (via the net), for 80 Euro a night. We liked it so much we decided to stay a second night and get our washing dry!
It was a shock to find bloody graffiti here!! Some of it is political but the rest is just stupid copycat graffiti as anywhere. Most of the buildings are quite decrepit too but that is part of the appeal. When our legs got too tired we just sat on the ferry for a whole round as we had a 24 hour ticket. My leg is getting stronger every day, and so it needs to be as it is 50 steps up over a bridge and then down. We must have done thousands of step-up equivalents!
Next stop is Verona.

The food edition for Croatia

Sea food, sea food, sea food.
After a week we are now into the swing of eating seafood at every meal.
The breakfasts here are an espresso and not much else for the locals. We had a cheese and ham toastie to go with our large macciatos this morning. On the boat we had fresh bread with some fish paste or jam or honey and disgusting coffee so we opted for the tea. I bought some muesli and we got fruit at the markets to supplement. Lunches on the boat were 3 course affairs of simple fare as I have said already. A soup of pasta to start (often fishy), and then a main of meat or fish and some boiled veges, and a piece of fruit to finish.
Yesterday in Dubrovnik we had our best meal yet.
It was grilled squid and potatoes for Barry and a dish with a white shrimp risotto and prawns on skewers. Yum. We also had some grilled egg plant, peppers and tomatoes with a sea food salad of chopped up octopus, mussles and red onion and tomatoes.
The day before effort was nearly as good...octopus salad, mussles, and calamari. We decided at about that point that we could get used to sea food at every meal.
Octopus salad is the favourite local dish around here. The black ink squid with risotto or spaghetti is also a local delicacy but we didn’t get around to it
A long bus trip up to Split (crossing Bosnia!) followed by an overnight ferry to Italy, and then a train trip up to Venice awaits us over the next 36 hours so we will be the worse for wear. Last time in Venice together we could not afford to eat out for most of the trip but splurged and had a simple meal water front and nearly fainted at the price.
Barry has just been to the supermarket and bought a bag of food for the journey for the same price as we have been paying for 2 beers at a bar. No wonder 25 years ago we only ate from the supermarket.
Ciao,
Suzette and Barry

A blissful week at sea.

A week has just flown by, and we find ourselves back in Dubrovnik and the hustle and bustle of a city going by. We will sleep one more night on the boat, and then an apartment tomorrow night before bussing up to Split. It is hot outside and there are a number of cruise ships in, so we are waiting a few hours for the heat to go, and the people to go.
The islands of the past few days have been very tranquil so it is a bit of a shock to hear traffic. The little village we spent last night in was quite run down, and one bar type of place at this time of year. Sipan. We came around the corner to Lupad this morning and it was fantastic. A Franciscan monastery on the rocky promenade and a few shops and apartments water-front. All of the Kiwis on board could relate to holidaying there. You even ha dto walk slowly so as to not stand out.
One of the highlights as the national park at Miljet. I walked kms and kms while most of the others biked even further. I don’t want to upset my back too much. There was a monastery on a tiny central island in the middle of a lake.
Every dinner is sea food and to be honest I have had enough of it. Barry loves the grilled whole fish, while I go for the spaghetti del mar type dishes. Lunch is cooked on board and is part of the fare. It is plain Croatian food that you wouldn’t write home about (hang on, I am!)
Meat of some sort, or fish and veges. Pasta or soup to start, fruit to finish. The coffee is disgusting on board, so the most mornings we get up and find an espresso before sailing.
I am now in the groove of sleeping in until 8am though, so that is the time we sail.
Barry has had a swim each day with most of the men, but most of the women have not bothered a sit was very cold water. Some of the NZ family celebrating the 60th of the Dad were game enough to jump off the top deck! That includes the mother who must be nearly 60. She does have a bruised bum as result however.
The water is so clear that you can see the bottom and all of the fish, and no matter where you are. You never get sick of looking at it.
Well we had better gather the energy for the Dubrovnik walk. Another medieval walled town..ho hum.?!!
Will add photos later on when we have the fast internet speeds to cope. It is meant to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world, and from our glimpse from the bus on the way in it was spectacular.
Ciao,
Suzette and Barry

Cruising the Dalmation Coast.

Hi all,
This time from a boat in the Adriatic. We have settled into a pattern now....up around 6am for a walk in the little town we are moored at and find a coffee. The boat leaves at 8am and that is when breakfast is also served. It is simple fare so we supplemented with the local bakery for a roll and a slice of cheese and a slice of prociutto. We pull in for a swim stop around lunch time, although it was only a handful of hardy men who went in yesterday. The water is probably NZ temps and it was quite cool day yesterday (maybe up to 17/18?). Today is nicer and sunnier so may make 20. Last night we were moored in Korkula, a restored/preserved medieval town on an island.. It was stunning from all angles and all lights. We sat for dinner on the water front watching the sun go down and the fishing boats come in...magic. Most of the food is sea food of course. Barry had an octopus stew and I had handmade macaroni with gargonzola cheese...yum! We get a cooked lunch on board....not much to write home about but edible. The wine on board isn’t up to much either, so it will cause me to not bother too much.
Dad you would love here, the yachts tied up right in the middle of town, and the many islands to hop from on eto the other. It reminds me of the Bay of Islands except for the historic towns and the stark Central Otago like mountains in behind. Let’s say the water is flat like the Bay of Islands.
The people on board are nice...mostly retired or nearly retired folk like ourselves!!!
A large NZ contingent a few Aussies, an Irish couple and a German couple, 21 in all.
I will up-load some photos once I am on a faster speed somewhere.